In the 1880s, the city elders of Valencia decided to prevent periodic flooding by redirecting the river away from the city. This was a project that would be similar in scale to re-directing the Thames so that it no longer flowed through London. With the river redirected, the people of Valencia had created a submerged route that cut through all parts of the city. This could have become a transport route or the most lucrative parts sold to development – but in an enlightened civic gesture that demonstrates the true value of Planning as a visionary act, Valencia's leaders decided to turn what had been the river into a park. Today it is called the 'Rio de Cultura' (river of culture) and this most memorable of urban spaces elegantly stitches the city together with green space where residents can walk and cycle to work, play sports, listen to music or just relax on the grass in the dappled shade of a grove of orange trees.
Valencia's excellent metro system travels under sections of this to appear in the park at stations such as Alameda Metro by Santiago Calatrava. The metro station is here because this is more than just a garden – each section between the bridges is a different type of garden: There is a sport section with tennis courts and full size football pitches, a section of fountains that contains the 'palace of music', there is a section for children, as well as the spectacular opera house and science park with an Imax screen submerged like a dragonfly landing on a pool of water. Close to the coast the garden contains the biggest aquarium in Europe with parabolic structures by Felix Candala and a glass tunnel that passes through tanks with sharks and strange fish. But the 'river of culture' is more than a sequence of events, this continuous garden has a great civilizing effect creating a city where it is a joy to walk and cycle – so everyone does.
view of 'rio de cultura' from top of old city gates
Walking along what was once a river bed, looking up at the ancient stone embankment walls, catching glimpses of the old fortification gates above that lead to the intimacy of the historic core, you may be tempted to walk up a ramp and explore: From the Baroque cathedral and the spaces that surround it, look through the pool of water with its glass floor in front of the archaeological museum to see the ruins of the ancient city below, then on to the Lonja de la Seda (Silk market) or the sugary confection of the ceramica museum and the original University buildings close by, everywhere it is 'firmness and delight'. Walk on through the 'Belle Epoch' business district, remembering to stop at the Mercado Central then on to the wonderful Estacio del Nord that influenced Mackintosh and the bohemian Barrio Ruzca beyond. There are buildings by Foster, Calatrava, Felix Candala, Renzo Piano and David Chipperfield's Americas cup building. You will need to book a week in advance for the tour of 'The Museum of Philosophy' to be guided by Trappist monks, if you forget, treat yourself with a stroll around the modern art exhibited on the original 11th Century Islamic walls under Plaza del Tossal. As you walk along the surrounding streets, bits of that 13th Century wall will appear in modern shops, or whatever it passes through. The wall may be old but the stylish design that is likely to surround it shows an enlightened approach to conservation. However, the real delight is at night: after 10pm, the city pulls back the shutters, on what in the daytime looked like nothing, to reveal hip modern bars and restaurants. Tables spill out onto the streets under illuminated trees as you walk through a maze of streets that suddenly feel like Montmartre; people, music, local wine and tapas, life in every corner.
In 2011 I was lucky enough to be invited to Calatrava's office with The Worshipful Company of Chartered Architects. Professor Malek from Valencia University guided us around the city and impressed us with his knowledge and passion for architecture. Now, with all the economic problems it is relatively cheap to travel to Spain. So, go on, treat yourself, live a little, visit Valencia and enjoy.
Valencia Tennis Court by Santiago Calatrava
Steps by Rio de Cultura, Valencia
Entrance to the ceramic museum
The 'Belle Epoch' business district
Building in Barrio Ruzca (Russian Sector)
A video of the Worshipful Company of Chartered Architects architects trip to Valencia can be seen at:
To join the WCCA – http://architects-livery-company.blogspot.co.uk/
Alex King is an architect and his design 'Santiago Townhouse' won the British Homes Awards in 2011 - Alex King Design / Designalexable, examples of his latest work can be seen at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yGQhlRz8mc
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